Next morning began with a decent breakfast with yoghurt and
juice. Good, for this was to be a long day, even though I was
not aware of that yet. I took off at eight.
The first part goes along Via Cassia, the main road to Rome.
The original Via Cassia, today called Via Cassia Antiqua, was
built 200 – 300 years before Jesus walked around in Palestine.
The current version is a main road for motorised traffic and
has the same name all the way to Rome. The path turns right
after a few km after passing a Coop where supplies can be
refilled. Pellegrinos are guided to stroll along a beautiful
landscape on small roads. The way is fairly clearly signed
although a map can help shorten the way a little.
At lunch time Montefiascone was entered. This was around
12:30. It was supposed to be the end of the today's stage. I
did not want to stay here half a day doing nothing, nobody
to talk to and just be sitting at a hotel room. Would it be
possible to walk half the distance of next day's stage? A
discussion at the tourist information indicated a possible
Agroturismo at half the way. I know they are quite
expensive, but OK, in case of rain or other problems it
could be an emergency alternative.
But first I needed lunch and a tour around the village.
Lunch at restaurant Mamma e Pappa (No not Swedish = Mum and
Dad, but Italian = Mum and Mush, Swedish: Mamma och
Välling). The absolute best Spaghetti Carbonara so far,
followed by a homemade Tiramisu of high quality. I was
thirsty and asked for a large beer. Was suggested a
speciality, which I accepted unaware of the price. Actually
you should have wine in Montefiascone; this is the origin of
the Est! Est!! Est!!! wine.
Feeling strong after a healthy lunch I decided to continue
after visiting the borgo and its fantastic view over the Lago
The borgo (fortress) is located at the very top of the
city. It is today an archaeological site with a fantastic
view. In ancient time the borgo gave protection to popes
that wouldn't dare to come close to Rome.
Montifiascone has a fantastic duomo that I should have seen
from the inside, not only from distance. After visiting the
borgo I went on the steep road down through the old city.
When leaving Montefiascone the road continues on the Via
Cassia Antiqua for a while. On some parts the original
paving still remains. You walk on stones placed there by the
Romans, or more likely, their slaves. I feel the history in
Passing a thermal bath on the way, where people sat outside
in several small pools, I finally reached Viterbo by six in
the evening. Ten hours on foot except for the lunch in
Montefiascone. Now I just needed a hotel and then some rest.
Then I learned something; Viterbo is not a town, it is a
labyrinth. There are whole blocks that have only one common
entry and exit point, even for pedestrians. There are
crossings on the map where there in reality is a bridge with
five meters between the streets, and so on. Normally in an
Italian village you just walk into the centre, find a decent
hotel and get a room. I went around in the centre for one and
a half hour without seeing any hotel. Two B&B found on
Google maps were closed. Then I was asked by a woman if I
–What is the thing in the middle of an olive called?
–Kernel, I suggested which was accepted.
It should have been stone, but kernel is used in computer
language for the software in the middle. As a fair deal I
asked for an albergo qui vincino, a hotel nearby.
-Si, va dritto al la chiesa, girare a sinistra, proseguire
fino al porto, girare a destra, proseguire circa 1 km e
albergo è a destra.
Super, there was a hotel. It was a **** hotel with price
accordingly, but it was almost eight in the evening and I was
tired and hungry.
I had some of my lunch supplies from Coop in Bolsena and